Category Archives: Objects

USB-C Trigger Boards

Between having more disposable income and the potential for upcoming trade weirdness, I’ve been pretty fast-and-loose about buying random bullshit that catches my fancy from China of late.

A recent Aliexpress order consists mostly of USB tampering supplies, like an exhaustive set of breakouts for all the common USB connectors, including a couple extra type C breakout boards because I’ve been doing a bit of Chromebook abuse recently and a SuzyQ cable is likely to come in handy.

Close up of a HW-398 USB C Trigger Board


In that batch, I also picked up a 10 pack of these little HW-398 USB C PD trigger boards (aka Decoy boards). They have a USB C Female connector on one end, + and – pads on the other, and a series of little pads marked with voltages that you can solder bridge to an adjacent resistor to have it negotiate that mode – apparently via any of the PD/QC/AFC protocols for doing so.
They seem like they should be useful for powering projects from easily obtained junk, but merit investigation because they also seem a little sketchy and were a whopping $0.63/each.

A couple of the behaviors and design decisions are interesting:

  • The USB C connector is slightly inset on the PCB, which is probably good for strength, but rather unfortunate for mounting it into a project.
  • They DO supply 5V when none of the higher values are selected, which is both reasonable and desirable.
  • There is a little blue indicator LED next to the plug, and it’s marginal at lower voltage.
  • It appears if you set a voltage not supported by a supply, you get the next voltage down, which I gather is suggested by the standard. This is not unreasonable but has real potential for unwelcome surprises if you don’t protect your design. The most likely issue seems to be a lot of supplies don’t support the optional 12V mode: I didn’t thoroughly test, but I popped one strapped for 12V onto a little Anker 313 whose label says 5V@3A,9V@3A,15V@2A,20V@1.5A and it delivered 9V.
  • The IC is conspicuously unlabeled. It’s an SOP10 package, and is smart enough to do to necessary USB negotiations (which are actual USB protocol traffic performing a handshake to read and write some control registers at either end). A little googling seems to imply the chip is a Fastsoc FS312 – It’s in the right package, supports PD,PPS, and QC negotiations, which lines up with the product description, and the setting straps are connecting resistors of values 184(180kΩ)=20V, 140(14Ω)=15V, 104(100kΩ)=12V, 513(51kΩ)=9V which matches the datasheet.
  • I haven’t done any load testing, but I don’t see any sign of regulation on the board, so I suspect the regulation will depend entirely on the supply.
  • I have no idea if the USB IF considers these legitimate.

It certainly seems like a useful gadget for the parts bin. LCSC doesn’t seem to stock the FS312 IC, which is a shame since now that I know they seem to just work with the very minimal suggested circuit in the datasheet that requires only a capacitor and resistor beyond the chip and connector, I’d start designing them into boards if I could get them stuffed by the usual scumbags.

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Mac Desktop DynaComp DCF-803 Recap

DynaComp DCF-803 PSU, as used in Apple Centris 610/Quadra 660AV/ PowerMac 6100 Systems

Since finally being rid of my PhD work, I’ve been hitting a bunch of projects that have been on my TODO list for ages.
The oldest so far is this PSU which has been sitting for …decades… in my parts pile with some compatible machines, and I’ve always intended to try rebuilding it. It died with a “ticking” symptom some time in the mid-00s.

I finally got around to it this week, and it wasn’t a bad job. About $10 of parts, a few hours of work, and it’s back in action. Rebuild details below.

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Pull Your Xbox Clock Capacitor

If you have an OG Xbox sitting on a shelf somewhere, this is your reminder to pull the clock capacitor and clean up whatever corrosive goo it has already vomited out.
I was talking old video games with a student in one of my labs this week and it reminded me that this is one of the many projects I’ve been meaning to get to but haven’t had time for for the last several years.

Photo highlighting the leaked clock capacitor in an OG Xbox.

Microsoft used some cheap 2.5V 1F early super caps which will inevitably fail and spray electrolyte on your motherboard, because they made some cost-cutting choices about the RTC, so now everyone with an old Xbox has to fix it.

iFixit has their usual helpful guide for pulling it apart, and the ConsoleMods wiki has the details on the clock cap situation. I didn’t even bother replacing the one in mine, I don’t pull my old Xbox out enough for it to matter.
Remove dead cap, clean residue thoroughly, move on. It’s a quick job.

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A buddy of mine dropped me a link to TI’s new brushed DC motor driver with sensorless speed control, the DRV8214. I spent a few minutes trying to hunt down the mechanism they use to derive speed from back EMF … Continue reading

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Look at this time crystal on shopgoodwill. A pristine Antec SX1030 case (or chieftech dragon or one of the other clones), painted metallic green with a window installed. Every commercial or DIY gaming PC in the first few years of … Continue reading

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Hacked Chromebook Thoughts

Several years ago I picked up a used Dell Chromebook 11 3189 (model code “Kefka”) to play with. At the time it was still receiving ChromeOS updates, had a sticky hinge that required some lubrication and manipulation to get working, and cost around $100 including the separately purchased power adapter. I’ve hacked on it in a wide variety of ways over the years, and the main interesting result is that I’m starting to think a hacked out-of-support x86 Chromebook is, in many ways, now better and cheaper than a Raspberry Pi in that role as a modern accessible extra computer to enable fearless play the Pi was intended to fill. I’ve been taking notes, so way too much detail below.

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A Classic 3D Printing Task: Thread Adapter

Every now and then I like to post one of these, just to show process I currently use. The magic of 3D printing is that once you’re set up this kind of quick job comes up all the time.

I have this cheap thread assortment that came on tubes rather than spools. It’s surprisingly decent thread, has good coverage for finding suitable colors for any project… and the 13mm ID tubes wobble badly on standard 4.5x40mm spool pins on sewing machines, especially when filling bobbins.

I was doing a little (ham fisted) machine sewing this weekend and it was irritating me …so I fixed it.


I’m finally getting less-incompetent with FreeCAD. Straight to “Part Design” workbench, sketch only one extruded pads’ features at a time, then decorate in any chamfers etc. at the interfaces. Import into PrusaSlicer with some sane defaults, send to the Anycubic Linear Kossel in the basement via OctoPrint (No, I don’t do it blind, I send and load the file, then go down to keep an eye on the startup sequence and make sure the filament hasn’t cracked and such), receive part.

Fit is intentionally a bit loose on all dimensions, nothing this part interacts with is consistent or close-tolerance, everything should move if it wants to, and the chamfer gets the tube seated well enough to not flop about.

FCStd and 3mf if anyone else happens to have this exact problem, which seems likely because similar thread assortments seem to be pretty ubiquitous on the usual eCommerce sites.

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In which I nerd out about Coffee Paraphernalia

Back in early 2010 I posted about my home espresso setup at the time. I recently (finally) replaced it, and I have thoughts. Obnoxious, obsessive, thoughts.

The TL;DR is that I bought a Breville Bambino espresso machine and a Turin SK40 grinder, the former is good, the latter is really good, but there is plenty of rambling and pictures and such below the fold.

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Anbernic RG351(p) and Powkiddy RGB10 Max2 Button Membranes are Drop-In Compatible

I’ve had an Anbernic RG351P for roughly 2 years now, and it’s an absolutely delightful object.

For those unfamiliar: the RG351 is an example of a class of little gaming emulation handhelds that started back in the mid-to-late 2000s with things like the Dingoo A330. They are, essentially, a tiny ARM (+ usually Linux) machine the size and shape of a handheld gaming device, set up with a built-in controller specifically to run games in emulation. The stock firmware on the RG351 is an ancient EmulationStation/RetroArch/Linux stack, but there are better alternatives – IMO, throwing in a decent SD card loaded with AmberElec is the first thing to do when you get one. It will play essentially everything from the dawn of gaming through the PlayStation and some (but not all) of the Nintendo 64 library, and has limited/marginal support for PSP and DS. It is …straightforward but not the sort of thing I’ll link… to obtain the full ROMsets for these platforms, they are frankly not that large. I paid about $90 for mine, I think they’ve gone up a bit, but there are a whole range of similar options at different price points, build qualities, and platform support.

The build quality, however, isn’t perfect. It’s small-brand China-export hardware. You know you have to be a little careful with it just from handling (I keep mine in a fitted case when throwing it in a bag). I’ve been through a screen (I got red lines in my original after about a year), re-gluing the back rubber pads (original glue melted), and now after two years I wore through the membrane behind the “A” button, and that’s actually what this post is about.

I opened it up, found the worn though button, looked around online, couldn’t any in stock, contacted Anbernic through their AliExpress store front (none available), asked the subreddit (no leads), and couldn’t come up with any exact replacement membranes.

HOWEVER on inspection, the membranes from the similar Powkiddy RBG10 appeared extremely similar, and those are readily available (as a $12ish pack of all the membranes and button caps to refit an RGB10, which includes two of the 4x membranes). I ordered this set via Aliexpress, and ~16 days later when it showed up, can confirm the membranes are slightly different, but drop-in compatible.

As you can see from the photos, the Powkiddy membranes have a bit more flat area, and the bottoms of the mounting holes are filled in rather than fully punched through, but the dimensions are exactly right. The height and force of the domes is even almost identical to the originals, and at effectively $6/membrane it’s a very reasonable repair.

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Most Overpriced Marchintosh


Since I recently got my HP Apollo 9000 Series 735 up and running, and it’s March, I decided to have a little Marchintosh fun and load MAE (the Macintosh Application Environment, a real officially-licensed Apple product) on to it this evening. As you can see from the photo (because I don’t have a device that can capture the video this thing outputs, and haven’t figured out screenshots under HP-UX 10.20), it works.

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