Category Archives: DIY

Work Gloves

How did I ever get anything done without them?
workgloves_sm.jpg
At the recommendation of a friend I got some machinist-style work gloves (these) for working on my CNC Mill project (which is coming along rather nicely); I don’t know how I ever accomplished anything without them. They allow you to use your hands with incredible abandon — accidentally clipped your finger with a file? no problem. Tapped yourself with a spinning dremel bit? no problem. Grabbed a razor-sharp freshly cut metal edge? no problem. They also allow you to maintain grip irregardless of what may be on your hands, both from the cutting oils and slippery bits perspective and from the tiny sharp metal fragments perspective. There are even nice little pads on the tips of the fingers to make the important areas grippier.
Then there’s my favorite feature; the knuckle guards. This style of glove is typified by rubber splines over the backs of the knuckles, which absorb and spread out any impacts, so when your hand slips while tightening something, there is no cursing and bleeding. The splines do however make one feel compelled to punch at things, just because you know you can.

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CNC Beginnings

The beginnings of my CNC project, in the form of parts for the XY table, and associated tool pile:
XYParts_sm.jpg
The motion capability will be 9” in the X dimension and 6” in the Y direction, the Z axis is on hold until after the semester is over, there just isn’t time to design it in now.
Drives:
Each axis will be driven by a 130 oz-in NEMA23 Stepper (Lin Engineering 5618S-58-01)
The lead screw to run the axis is a 3/8” coarse threaded rod, cut to length
The travel nuts are 1.125” coupling nuts (long, to help with backlash without spending money)
One remaining problem is couplers for attaching the lead screw to the drive shaft, there are lots of options, but they all seem to cost at least $10/axis. I suspect unless something better appears I’ll end up with lovejoy couplings.

From aluminum square tubing (1” OD, .062” walls):
8”x8” (outside) square frame for Y axis
6”x12” (outside) rectangle for X axis
The framing will be assembled with bolts, tabs cut from 90deg angle stock, and a bit of epoxy to make it easier.

The next big fuss is figuring out the driver circuits. The motors are rated for 2A at any practical voltage, and only show about 2.6Ohms/coil of resistance, so its going to require proper current-controlled drivers, which may be expensive.

The thing I’m liking most about this project is that I’m learning a huge amount of practical, hands-on knowledge about metalworking and mechanical devices in a hurry, in a low-investment environment so I can experiment and really get a feel for things. I’m not sure if I’ll ever do much more metalwork, but its a good skill to have.

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AVRs are Amazing

To add to all the other reasons I love AVRs (cheap, featureful, good development tools, beautiful assembly language), they are now also to be considered almost impossibly resilient: I just made a mistake and reverse biased an ATTiny13 micro (swapped Power and Ground wires), causing it to heat up until it was too hot to touch… I just popped it back in the programmer after it cooled down, and it is completely fine. Win, atmel, win.

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Dorkbotlex #1

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I went to dorkbotlex last Saturday (pi day!) and just got around to flickring the (few) pictures I took. Flickr set here. There are also some videos on their tumblr page.
As always, it makes me really happy to see signs of geek culture in Lexington.

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Screen Printing With Bleach

While further procrastinating, I found the ellembee shop at etsy, who sells gorgeous shirts (partly) subtractively printed by screen printing with bleach, which is a damn nifty idea. For those not attuned to that particular bit of interweb, etsy is a website for buying and selling handmade things, mostly crafty in nature, and is a wonderful place to browse for novel objects… like subtractively screen printed shirts.
Ellembee only makes womens shirts or I would already have one of the bleach + chocolate ink “floral” pattern shirts on the way. I’d consider contacting them about making a mens/unisex tee, maybe on one of those amazing universally fitted American Apparel shirts like shirt.woot uses, but I’m a little afraid of how much it would cost… it seems like something perfectly acceptable for a male to wear, but it has long been established that I have slightly effeminate tastes.

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Retro Computing

I saw retr0bright, a hobbyist produced restorer for antique plastics go by on the geek newses(first via /.) today. It probably does do a little bit of damage to the plastics when used, but I doubt it’s much worse than another year of aging. I love antique computing tech, and this provides a flimsy excuse to ramble about it a bit instead of working on all the things I should be.

I’m specifically interested in retr0bright for restoring the plastics on the Mac SE I yardsaled some years ago. I picked it up partly out of waning to poke around in a one-piece Mac, and partly because the case information indicates it is +/- a few months of my age, which makes it a nifty conversation piece. The machine is a fun project box as well; Mac SEs have bays for two drives, either two floppy drives or a floppy and a hard drive, I mounted a small spare SCSI hard drive into the internal frame with a little bit of EM shielding, and kept both floppies. Having grown up on Macs (the formative computer for me was a Macintosh Centris 660AV running OS 7.1. The machine is still in my parent’s attic, but I’m fairly certain its video board has died. The SE is sitting on a shelf in my old room in my parent’s house, and when last I tried it was still fully functioning. People who knew me in middle and high school will remember that one side of my room was covered in a selection of aging Apple hardware, it was a big part in making me the hacker I am today.

I am mostly unimpressed by modern Macs (although I wouldn’t mind a Mac or a hackintosh to play with), but still sometimes pine for awesome old mac software; this is what Basilisk][ is for. Coupled with an appropriate ROM image and disc or disc image (both of which I keep around), Basilisk][ can emulate a 68k mac on a Windows, Linux, OS X (and possibly others) host. This lets me reminisce, and play with old software from my childhood without having to bust out any finicky old hardware. A lot of the things I keep on the drive image are games I remember from childhood, especially a couple of old Ambrosia software titles like Barrack (a particularly awesome jezzball-like game) and the first two titles in the Escape Velocity series (which are perfect non-classical RPGs). I also keep a copy of Word 5.1, which is in some ways still the best thing Microsoft ever made, and some other productivity titles from the time. It’s always neat to see what changes and what stays the same.

In the same vein as Basilisk ][, one of my other formative experiences in geekry was learning about emulation, staring with the Super Nintendo and snes9x. The joy of “You can play all those awesome old games on your computer” has always been an almost irresistible motivator, both for myself and for passing on to others. Emulation also provides a great outlet for compulsive behavior for lots of people, especially when you start to look into the world of ROM collectors (ROM in this case refers to software copies of games, which were traditionally stored on ROMs). My interest in emulation waxes and wanes, but I always keep at least a distant eye on the scene, and have always sort of wanted a MAME Cabinet (a standup arcade cabinet with a computer that runs MAME to allow it to be all arcade games in one. Maybe now with the hacker space I can interest some others in putting one together, so that I don’t end up with a full-sized standup arcade cabinet that I have to worry about moving around with me, but can still build and play with one.

While talking about retro tech, it’s important to mention the other computer really important to my geek development the Winbook XL my parents bought me when I started middle school. It is a bog-standard, if slightly cankerous, Pentium MMX laptop (intel chipset, yamaha OPL3 sound, Chips&Tech graphics, etc.) with an awful, awful 12.1” passive matrix LCD. The machine was my first serious experience with windows, with hardware and software upgrades, with system administration, and, most importantly, with Linux. My first distro was SuSE 7.2, I then bounced around for a while, briefly settling on Slackware, and eventually finding my way to Arch, which has been my primary OS for years. As for the machine itself, some of the port covers fell off in its first few years, and the hinges failed after about 5 years. A few months ago the backlight(or backlight transformer) gave out… but the bulk of the machine still works, and has BeOS (a wonderful, beautiful OS that is a perfect example of computing that could have been) and Debian systems on it. I get it out from time to time when I need another beater box to try something on.

Obviously computer history is something I love, from the truly early stuff, (Babbage, Lovelace) and even more the World War 2 era (Mauchly, Eckert, Aiken, Von Neumenn, Turing, Zuse…) into the 70s, 80s and 90s when computing technology really began to permeate the world. The best book I know of on the topic is A History of Computing Technology, 2nd Edition, if anyone knows of something better, especially for more modern stuff, please tell me.

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IEEE Robot

My extra timesink for the surrounding few weeks has been helping out with UK’s IEEE Southeastcon Competition Robot.
I spent a lot of time last semester making a never-quite-working (but very educational) vision system as a senior project; we opted not to use it (the “never-quite-working part) a few weeks ago, but the rest of the robot isn’t (wasn’t?) really in order to compete, so there have been lots of little things to take care of. This year’s robot “recycles,” it has 4 minutes to gather Coca-Cola empties (conference is in Atlanta, GA this year, of course its Coke) off of a 10×10 astroturf field, and sort them by material (glass, aluminum, plastic). Full rules are available here. The current state of the robot looks as follows, and has at least a rough software framework to drive the pictured hardware.
IEEERobot1.jpg
I don’t have an awful lot of time to dedicate to it, so I’ve been trying to take care of little things; soldering jobs, little pieces of glue code to make the software work, passing information around the group to make sure everyone stays synchronized. Hopefully it’s been useful. Indications are that there will be a reasonably competitive robot in a week, there has been a lot of a lot of people’s time and effort (not to mention a fair chunk of the UK IEEE Student Branch’s money) invested in this year’s robot, so I certainly hope so. I may even get all the OTHER things that the time spent on the robot and going to the conference proper is pulling time away from.

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USBTinyISP

I got my Adafruit USBTinyISP AVR programmer/SPI Interface/USB Bitbang Device kit today, and was compelled to immediately assemble and test it. The USBTinyISP is an excellent product; it is considerably cheaper than the official Atmel AVR programmer, just as functional, and supports a fellow qualified hobbyist. I’ve been meaning to pick up my own AVR programmer for a while, as having a programmer and a stock of cheap microcontrollers (I also recently picked up half a dozen adorable ATTiny13 chips to use with it to give my SmartLEDs idea a shot) enables all kinds of cool projects, that do not involve “find one of the programmers on campus” or “Use the department’s Arduino Dieciemilia that I haven’t returned.”
The USBTinyISP comes as a very nice kit, which includes all the component parts including a nice case and well-made PCB.
usbtinyispparts_small.jpg
In the picture, in addition to the included parts, you can see my trusty Xytronic 379 Soldering Station, for which I have nothing but praise (if you think you need one of those classic blue Weller WES51 stations, you really need one of these, its a better station and costs half as much). In the left of the frame you can see my Leatherman Wave, which I cooed about a few days ago. It just happened to be in the picture, I use an ancient pair of thin-profile pliers (now sold as the Xcelite 378, highly, highly recommended) I inherited from my mother when I am working on electronics at home.
usbtinyispalmostdone_small.JPG
I consider myself reasonably competent with a soldering iron, and it took me a little under an hour to go from holding a mailer pouch to programming a chip, with no fuckups in between, which speaks well for the quality of the instructions, the kit, and the thinking that went into them. There are a few interesting quirks in the design; several resistors mount vertically to the PCB, the large electrolytic capacitor is intentionally mounted so it rests on top of the TTL buffer. These are both space-saving measures, and anyone who has ever seen most of the things I throw together on perfboard knows I have a high esteem for nifty tight designs.
Using the completed programmer is just the same as all the other models of AVR programmer. For software I use AVRDude, since it is well-supported on all common platforms. Below is a shot of my first successful program (or actually, readout) of a chip.
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(closeup)
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That tiny black thing on the breadboard surrounded by the brightly colored wires is one of the aforementioned ATTiny13 chips; I paid $1.95ea for those, and it really is an entirely capable little microcontroller. The incessant march of technological progress never ceases to amaze me. Sometime soon I’ll need to make a little target board that can socket the ATTiny13s and has a plug for the 6-pin connector so I don’t have to muck about with loose wires every time.

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Collexion

EDIT: Never mind, voting has been extended until Friday 2008-02-28

By a vote-with-pledge-for-appropriate-membership-fee, the Lexington hacker space and associated community is now known as Collexion. This was my second choice after LexCapacitor (a double pun on flux capacitor and NYC Resistor, beyond the obvious “storing creative energy”). I agree that this is probably more friendly to the non electronics-dorks in the potential community, and am perfectly satisfied with the outcome. It also sounds like we have a space; will be moving in to a portion of the very large, very nice space recently leased by Awesome Inc., who are working to start as a reasonably compatibly aimed technology business incubator/coworking space. So long as there are no further incidents with people from Awesome (cap = Awesome Inc.) speaking for us, and the slimy MBA feel of the Awesome people doesn’t interfere with our hacker flair, it seems like a great arrangement for all involved.

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Design

I’ve been reading a lot of things about design of late: Donald Norman’s classic The Design of Everyday Things, Jef Raskin’s (disappointing) treatise on User Interface design The Humane Interface, copies of Dwell my mother passes to me when she finishes with them. In my Cognitive Sciences course, I think of many of the topics we discuss through the lens of a designer.
I came across Dieter Rams’ Ten Commandments on Design again today. All the babbling blowhards have managed to produce with their cognitive models and quantitative approaches (which I am usually all for) is summed up neatly in these ten statements.

Good design is innovative.
It does not copy existing product forms, nor does it produce any kind of novelty just for the sake of it. The essence of innovation must be clearly seen in all of a product’s functions. Current technological development keeps offering new chances for innovative solutions.

Good design makes a product useful.
The product is bought or used in order to be used. It must serve a defined purpose — in both primary and additional functions. The most important task of design is to optimize the utility of a product’s usability.

Good design is aesthetic.
The aesthetic quality of a product is integral to its usefulness because products we use every day affect our well-being. But only well-executed objects can be beautiful.

Good design helps us to understand a product.
It clarifies the product’s structure. Better still, it can make the product talk. At best, it is self-explanatory.

Good design is unobtrusive.
Products fulfilling a purpose are like tools. They are neither decorative objects nor works of art. Their design should therefore be both neutral and restrained, to leave room for the user’s self-expression.

Good design is honest.
It does not make a product more innovative, powerful or valuable than it normally is. It does not attempt to manipulate the consumer with promises that cannot be kept.

Good design has longevity.
It does not follow trends that become outdated after a short time. Well designed products differ significantly from short-lived trivial products in today’s throwaway society.

Good design is consequent to the last detail.
Nothing must be arbitrary. Thoroughness and accuracy in the design process shows respect toward the user.

Good design is concerned with the environment.
Design must make contributions toward a stable environment and sensible raw material situation. This does not only include actual pollution, but also visual pollution and destruction of our environment.

Good design is as little design as possible.
Less is better — because it concentrates on the essential aspects and the products are not burdened with non-essentials. Back to purity, back to simplicity!

(I find I like it better with the selectively bolded words, that was my doing). I would really like to know when and where these were originally published.

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