{"id":107612,"date":"2026-06-25T16:23:59","date_gmt":"2026-06-25T20:23:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/pappp.net\/?p=107612"},"modified":"2026-06-25T18:33:06","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T22:33:06","slug":"siboor-voron-trident-300mm-cnc-awd","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pappp.net\/?p=107612","title":{"rendered":"Siboor Voron Trident (300mm CNC\/AWD)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"My<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I decided it was time for a 3D printer upgrade recently. I did some playing with my old Kossel<\/a>, adding braces<\/a> and changing some tuning since it runs Klipper<\/a>, and while it continues to be a fine machine for small PLA parts, and a fun project, I wanted more volume, more speed, and an enclosure so I can run a wider range of materials.
Instead of doing something reasonable and spending O($500) on one of the various commercial options that meets the “Enclosed, Larger, Faster 3D printer that I can run a wider range of materials on” (the Qidi Q2 was a close contender) I decided I wanted to build a Voron Trident.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I did “some” reading so I had opinions on mods I wanted out of the gate\u2026 and ended up buying one of the ‘roided out Siboor Voron Trident “June ’24” 300mm CNC\/AWD kits<\/a> for (once import duties were paid and such) about $1500. That includes their “Booster Pack 1” option, so it has steel backers on Y, aluminum gantry corner braces (this was the feature I cared about – triangles are good), and TMC5160Ts on the X\/Y motors, in addition to the kit standard CNC gantry with double-shear mounts and AWD (they nicely include the 2WD idlers as well, but don’t document the belt path using them), 9mm belts, inverted electronics, clickyclack door, fume pack, and (frankly kind of questionable) side booster fan. I thought I was getting a CB2 for the computer, but it came with a Pi CM4 (CM4102032), which I’m pleased about.
I went for Siboor’s kit despite the Trident R2 already being partially announced because I wanted several of the nonstandard features they bundle, and I wanted to be sure I had it while I had time to spend the several-tens-of-hours to build and tune it before I had academic year obligations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I ordered the kit via Siboor’s Aliexpress storefront May 14, it was delivered June 10, and printing June 20. It’s currently built essentially to kit instructions, and I’m very pleased with the build process and result. Since so much knowledge about these things is disappearing into search-proof proprietary silos (lookin’ at you, Discord), too much detail below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

The Siboor modified instructions<\/a> are quite good. It’s not a trivial build even for someone reasonably familiar with mechatronics; read ahead, take notes about orientations, stage all the parts for each step, and make sure you understand it. The Voron parts are well (and\u2026 especially in the case of the stealthburner toolhead, sometimes over) designed, in terms of things like alignment features, screws bearing in the strong direction of prints, and tool access. The mod parts are a little less elegant that way, but they work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tools<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The kit comes with decent ball-end hex drivers, which I actually used for much of the assembly rather than other drivers I have around, and a screwdriver. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Siboor has a tool guide<\/a> that suggests what else you’ll need, and it’s mostly solid. Among the noted stuff I finally bought a heatset insert tip set for one of my soldering irons instead of continuing to wing it with a soldering tip. I also picked up a 24″ Harbor Freight combination square<\/a> plus one of the several sets of digital calipers I have around for measurement. Having a big rough measuring tool for sizing and squaring and a smaller more precise one for detail work was highly desirable. I bought a tube of the Voron-recommended Mobilux EP2 grease and glommed the 10ml of it I’ll ever need into a dispensing syringe with a popsicle stick. I suspect it’s a little thick for the application, but it’s certainly less annoying to work with than the white lithium grease I use on the shafts of my CNC router. It’s also not the weirdest grease I own a whole tube of for one few-ml job (that’s probably the tube of Mobilgrease 28 clay thickened polyalphaolefin aviation grease I have for the grease points in old IBM equipment like Selectric typewriters), it should be a good choice for almost all the linear motion system machines I own and\/or work on, so it’s not a terrible thing to have a surplus of. I did also take advice to use a few dots of superglue to anchor specific nuts and magnets, and a few dots of blue thread locker for specific fasteners.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I used a polished stone tile (bought from the LEX Center for Creative ReUse<\/a> for like a dollar) that I use as a flat for many shop tasks, for keeping extrusions aligned while I tightened the blind joints, and it worked well. A bigger flat surface plate would be nicer, this was fine and cheap – you definitely do want something hard and flat to work against.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Aligning<\/a>
You definitely want a hard, flat surface for assembly, but it doesn’t have to be large\/expensive<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As for tools not mentioned in the guide: a razor blade (and\/or exacto type knife) and surface to cut against was definitely necessary. I ended up using a hacksaw to make the cuts in the PVC wire channels, and that was a bit miserable; the only extra tool I wish I’d had in retrospect is a PVC channel cutter; you cut a lot of ducts and covers and such during the build, and it would have been nicer than the strategy I ended up using. The PVC wire channels were actually one of the fussiest parts of the build, but well worth it for the result.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I’d strongly suggest having a basic multimeter for verifying wiring and voltages. I ended up doing a fair amount of probing about, mostly just checking continuity, impedance, and voltages to verify correctness, and it was extremely helpful.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nice-to-have tools included microtip pliers, metric 1\/4″ hex bits and drivers in a couple sizes (for running fasteners quickly, and for a few that were tricky to access with the L wrenches), and small metric combination wrenches and\/or sockets (especially a 5mm).

Once running, if you’re working on a 3D printer you need at least one pair each of decent tweezers and flush cutters at hand. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I did a few decadent “convenient” things that I happen to have tools for; I have a magnetic polarity tester so I put Red\/Blue dots on the North\/South poles of the magnets to avoid screwups, and cleaned up some wiring with heatshrink since I stock an assortment. I also re-terminated a couple wires with spade connectors or ferrules, but I don’t think that would be worth getting crimpers for if you didn’t already have them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This would be a much longer (and fiddlier, and more expensive) build process for someone who isn’t reasonably used to and equipped for small mechatronic projects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kit and Build<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I’m generally super pleased with the kit, but there are a few notable issues. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"The<\/a>
The whole kit splayed out on the bench<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The<\/a>
The hardware kit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The provided hardware is good but not perfect. Siboor includes spares for much of the hardware, and the only missing part in mine was the 4x 5x45MM steel pins for the clickyclack door; I didn’t even screw around with support, I just summoned some next-day from Amazon for a few dollars. I also had to substitute two M3x10 SHCS for the M3x8s it says to use to attach the screen assembly to the skirt; there wasn’t quite enough reach to get the threads to start. The only part with a quality concern was the X fixing strip which is drilled slightly off-center, but since it goes in a carbon tube instead of an extrusion, it doesn’t seem to be a big deal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/a>
What happened here, Siboor?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I really dig the integrated design of the BigTreeTech Manta M8P V2.0, the only wrinkle I had with it was a little bit of flaky behavior with the CM4 not fully seating early in the software steps.
There is a set of M2.5×8 BHCS in the hardware kit which are not called out anywhere in the instructions, but are exactly what you need to hold the CM\/CB onto the M8P, so I installed them, and have not had connection issues since.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The kit cabling situation is also good not perfect.
Almost everything is pre-terminated correctly – IIRC the only things I changed were the SSR control cable had a JST instead of ferrules for the screw terminals it attaches to at the M8P end, and I added crimped spades to the toolhead power leads to clean that up.
I found the stripping step in the install process for the toolhead CAN\/XT30 cable a little fiddly and actually only stripped a section of the jacket where it goes in the extrusion plus a length at the end rather than the whole thing, because it was a fuss and I was afraid I was going to damage a conductor.
Many of the cables are excessively long, so I ended up with quite a bit of bundled cable in the electronics bay, but too long is better than too short, and I could trim and re-terminate if I wanted, so that’s not a major complaint.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The printed parts (and I bought a kit with everything, including cosmetic parts) were solid, with good finish. My only complaint about the printed parts is that the translucent bit for the logo on the stealthburner has more parts printed translucent than it’s supposed to, and whatever material they used is stiffer than ABS. Due to a mixture of the stiff part and my own hamfistedness, I had to replace both the little SMD decoupling cap and 51Ohm resistor I snapped off the first LED boardlet in the toolhead LED chain shoving it in with excessive force. I don’t mind doing a little SMD rework, and I (fortunately) have assortments of 0603 resistors and 0805 caps stocked, but that would have been a bigger problem for folks more normie-adjacent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Pins<\/a>
Oh, that’s<\/strong> why the machine resets when testing the side fan.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One of the fan boards (the two port for the 12032) had its pins push through the foam backer, short to the frame, and cause a reset when I was testing each individual component. I shortened the pins on both of the rail-mounted fan adapters with flush cutters to make sure that didn’t happen again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/a>
I swear I’m a qualified engineer, despite the chain of stupid mistakes that lead to this. At least it’s fixable.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A few mistakes on my end, I (ignored the giant yellow sticker and) left the PSU in 230V mode and ran the whole thing with the 24V rail at 20V and on the edge of brownout for a bit before I realized what I’d done while hunting a spurious reboot. I also burnt a CAN termination resistor (1206, 59Ohm, replaced with a pair of 62 Ohm ones from an assortment; 5.9 is in E48 but not E24 so they aren’t common, and the CAN bus tolerance is loose) by switching CANH\/CANL at one end while I was trying to diagnose a CAN problem that turned out to actually be configuring the wrong CAN pins on the M8Pv2.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I initially over-tightened the belts. I was using one of the TwoTrees depth-gauge-in-an-adapter tension meters, whose (sketchy) documentation suggested my 9mm belts should read about “9” on the meter, which was not a good move. I had a bit of a click in the gantry on X\/Y direction change that I couldn’t adjust out, so I got suspicious and tried the audio frequency method. That 9mm deflection corresponds to around 209Hz when a 150mm span is plucked, which (I think I’m doing this math right) is over 5N. Siboor suggests about 150Hz which is only about 2.75N. I relaxed the belts to 153Hz (because one of the adjusters bottomed out, I didn’t want to take the toolhead off; even is better than exact) which is about 2.88N, and the click went away after a few minutes of motion, so I’m calling it a success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These are extremely minor complaints for a kit of this complexity, and many of them are my fault for being careless.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From my annotated copy of the build guide, the entire set of errata I felt the need to document about the mechanical and wiring build:<\/p>\n\n\n\n